“…After dinner, we wandered about in the twisted cobbled alleyways of the old town. The two main streets were well lighted and filled with people, but the maze of alleys, arches, ancient doors and exterior stairs were dark, empty and secretive. On a large square the great Romanesque Cathedral rose like a stately ship under the white full moon. Another piazza was dominated by the Romanesque basilica of St. Nicola. (On a later, daytime visit, I noticed how the contrast of blinding light and deep shadows on the side arcades lightened the massiveness of the building in a very deliberate manner.) Walking under a great Gothic arch we found ourselves on a deserted quay on the seashore. Half a dozen ships lay anchored in the bay, and a sad sound from a siren drifted over us from one ship. The quiet was an enormous relief after the checkerboard of sounds in the old town; punk rock, hymns, sentimental songs and loud voices…”
Bari, the region’s capital and impressive for its vitality and human scale, is really two cities. The old town, a hilly peninsula jutting over the old port (Bari rivaled Venice in the 11th century), is a warren of little streets similar to those found in an Arab town. The old part of the city is the most interesting for tourists, as here are concentrated all the main attractions of Bari. This is the place where you can see the oldest buildings in the city – the ancient Barium, built in the Roman Empire era. In the old town you will find about 30 ancient churches and basilicas, each with its own history and legends.
The Basilica of St. Nicholas remains the main symbol of Bari. It impresses not only by its size, but also by its valuable relics, including the relics of St. Nicholas, which attract thousands of pilgrims each year. In one of the halls, ancient icons brought to the basilica at its founding in the 11th century are preserved.
New Bari is a thriving modern city, built on a grid plan, with wide avenues, public buildings (including a large theater and university), museums, concert halls, and modern apartment blocks. The central square, with its fountains and statues, is ideal for walking. Nearby are a theater, an art gallery, and the Museo Storico Civico, which tells the city’s story.
Not to be missed is the Petruzzelli Theatre, a magnificent historic venue reopened in 2010, where the interior recalls the grandeur of noble palaces. The suburban areas of Bari also preserve a wealth of architectural and historical sites. For shopping, the port area and the railway station surroundings offer a wide range of boutiques and specialty stores.
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